Buying 1970s Bordeaux: Your Condition Checklist

When buying 1970s Bordeaux, the bottle's condition is paramount. Ullage, or fill level, offers the best guide to a wine's health, especially for mature vintages. That is the view of Matt Walls, DWWA regional chair for Rhône, speaking to Decanter.com in 2018. Auction houses pay close attention to ullage as part of their assessment of a wine's health and potential resale value, Decanter states. You should also scrutinize provenance, as it provides crucial information about a wine's ownership history and storage circumstances. That matters most when you are establishing the estimated value of very old, rare, or valuable wines, as WineBid notes. Combined with careful inspection of the capsule, cork, and label, these details offer essential clues about a 50-year-old wine's potential quality before you open it.

What do ullage levels tell you about 1970s Bordeaux?

Ullage, also known as the fill level, describes the space between the wine and the bottom of the cork. It is one of the key things wine buyers should look for, particularly in more mature vintages, Decanter notes. A lower fill level means more air in the bottle, which accelerates the aging process, states Wine-Searcher Limited. The greater the amount of ullage, the more potential that the wine has been exposed to harmful levels of oxidation. During bottling, most wineries strive for an initial ullage level of between 0.2 and 0.4 inches, or 5 to 10mm. The amount of ullage then keeps growing as the wine ages, unless the bottle is opened, topped up and recorked. A bottle stored on its side loses wine into the cork as well, and a longer cork can absorb more than a short one.

Fill level descriptions differ for Bordeaux and Burgundy wines due to their distinct bottle shapes. For Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, and wines in similar bottles, WineBid uses specific terms:

• Base of neck or higher: If no fill level is indicated, it means the wine is at the base of the neck or higher. WineBid considers anything in the neck to be a perfect fill level for any bottle of any age.
• Very top shoulder: This indicates a slightly low fill at bottling or a slight natural reduction due to cork easing and evaporation. WineBid considers this an excellent fill level for any wine more than 20 years old.
• Top shoulder: On the high slope of the shoulder, this is an acceptable and normal fill level for wines 15 years of age and older. It is a very good fill level for wines 35 years of age and older, WineBid states. Decanter also reports Christie's guidance from 2013, which says "Top shoulder" is normal for any claret 15 years or older.
• Mid shoulder: This suggests ullage has dropped due to cork easing or inconsistent storage conditions. WineBid notes this may be normal for a wine that is 40 years old or older. Decanter reports Christie's guidance that "mid-shoulder" is not abnormal for a 30 to 40-year-old wine.
• Low shoulder: This occurs in older wines, according to WineBid. Decanter reports Christie's considers a "low shoulder" fill risky and usually only accepted for sale if the wine or label is exceptionally rare or interesting.

Michael Broadbent is a Master of Wine and former senior consultant of Christie's auction. He developed a guide for evaluating ullage levels of matured wines in the late 1980s, focusing primarily on Bordeaux. His guide, widely accepted in the wine market, uses the following assessments:

• High in neck (0.2 inches or 0.5 cm): Good condition for any age.
• Top of the shoulders (0.6 inches or 1.5 cm): Normal for older wines. Good condition for wines over 15 years.
• Upper part of shoulders (1 inch or 2.5 cm): Generally okay in older wines, especially those over 20 years.
• Mid to mid-low shoulders (1.18-1.38 inches or 3-3.5 cm): Possible oxidation. Price should reflect the risk.
• Low shoulders to below shoulders (2.36-2.75 inches or 6-7 cm): Extremely risky. Possibly undrinkable.

For 1970s Bordeaux, which are over 50 years old, a fill level at "mid shoulder" or lower indicates increasing risk. Julia Sewell, sommelier at The Fat Duck, states that "age aside, ullage lower than midshoulder level poses a much higher risk of spoilage," as reported by Decanter. A bottle naturally evaporates slowly through the permeable cork. So a 40-year-old bottle is expected to be less full than a current vintage of the same wine, Sewell adds.

You can compare expected fill levels for specific 1970s Bordeaux vintages using our expected fill bands for 1970, 1975 and 1978 Latour and Léoville Las Cases. For a broader understanding of fill levels, consult our guide on wine ullage levels explained.

How does provenance impact older Bordeaux?

Provenance, the ownership history of a particular wine, includes information about how the wine was acquired by the current owner and under what circumstances, WineBid explains. For very old, rare, or valuable wines, provenance is particularly important for establishing estimated value, WineBid notes. If there are questions about the provenance of wines offered for consignment, WineBid either rejects them or states clearly on the lot descriptions that the provenance is unknown.

Establishing provenance helps to minimize risks, according to Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, as reported by Decanter. WineBid uses terms to describe how wine was stored:

• Temperature Controlled Unit: Often accompanied by the unit's name, these compact units are designed to keep wines within ideal temperature and humidity ranges.
• Passive Cellar: Rooms in a residence without means of maintaining a permanent temperature. WineBid usually inspects such cellars to determine storage quality.
• Underground/Subterranean Cellar: Can be passive or temperature controlled. A passive underground storage area is preferable to an above-ground passive residential cellar. It is almost always cooler, less susceptible to damaging light, and generally very still.
• Professional Storage Facility: Lockers in temperature-controlled buildings that collectors can rent.
• Direct From Winery: Wines shipped directly from the winery to WineBid's Napa Valley warehouse.

When buying at auction, understanding the provenance can help you assess the potential quality of a bottle. You can explore more about this process in our guide on how to buy wine at auction.

What storage conditions affect a 50-year-old wine?

Storage conditions significantly influence a wine's aging and condition. Abnormally low fill levels indicate poor storage conditions, specifically high temperature or low humidity, Decanter states. Long-term storage requires a temperature of around 13°-15°C, a humidity level of 70% or so, and an absence of light and vibration, Decanter reports.

An increase in temperature tends to accelerate chemical reactions associated with wine aging, such as anthocyanin degradation, ester hydrolysis, or the formation of oxidative aromas, according to Chanut et al. Empirically, wines should be stored at temperatures around 12-16°C, Chanut et al. note. However, bottles can experience much higher temperatures, such as inside shipping containers. There, fluctuations up to 20°C can lead to noticeable changes in the wine, Chanut et al. add.

A study by Chanut et al. investigated the oxygen barrier properties of microagglomerated cork wafers in a model wine solution within miniaturized bottle systems over 24 months. The study found that:

• The oxygen diffusion coefficient of the cork wafer alone was not modified, regardless of storage conditions, even after 24 months of aging. Those conditions included temperature, storage position, and the presence of model wine.
• The total oxygen transfer, which includes transfer through the stopper and at the glass-cork interface, was modified by the presence of model wine. The total diffusion coefficient increased from 2.3 × 10⁻¹¹ to 4.7 × 10⁻¹¹ m² s⁻¹ after the initial three months of storage at 20°C. Transfer at the glass-cork interface accounted for nearly 70% of the total oxygen transfer.
• The storage position did not modify the oxygen transfer over 24 months at 20°C. That covers vertical, with the stopper in contact with the vapor phase, and horizontal, with the stopper in contact with the liquid phase.
• Temperature had a strong impact on oxygen transfer. At 20°C, oxygen barrier properties remained unchanged over 24 months. At 35°C, total oxygen transfer did not increase significantly for up to 9 months. Beyond this duration, a significant transfer at the glass-cork interface began to occur. At 50°C, this shift occurred within the first 3 months of storage.

These findings suggest that high storage temperatures, which can be reached during bottle shipping, can significantly compromise the seal of a cork-based closure over time. The damage comes from increased oxygen transfer at the glass-cork interface. For more insights on optimal conditions, see our guide on how to store wine.

What other bottle condition issues should you check?

Beyond ullage, WineBid inspectors are trained to document every possible bottle detail. You should examine the label, capsule, and cork for any noted issues.

• Labels: Inspectors may note light or heavy label condition issues. This can include labels that are bubbled, faded, folded, loose, nicked, scuffed, soiled, stained, tissue stained, torn, worn, wrinkled, or have writing not originally placed there by the producer, WineBid states.
• Capsules: Inspectors may note light or heavy capsule condition issues. This can refer to capsules that are chipped, corroded, cracked, missing, nicked, oxidized, scuffed, soiled, stained, torn, worn, or wrinkled, WineBid explains.
• Corks: Inspectors may note light or heavy cork condition issues, such as corks that are depressed or elevated, WineBid reports. Decanter also advises cutting the capsule to inspect the cork's condition and check for signs of seepage, or gently touching the cork to ensure it does not move. Seepage is the slow escape of wine due to natural cork lifecycle or storage conditions, WineBid defines.

Matt Walls, as quoted in Decanter, states that "The fill level of a bottle of wine (along with seepage, colour and signs of fraud) is something I always check when buying older bottles." David Dudley-Jones of Dudley Jones Fine Wines notes in Decanter that "lower fill levels [in the bottle neck] and resultant seepage usually point to heat exposure and poor storage."

What wine faults are common in older bottles?

Several wine faults can affect older bottles, often linked to poor storage or cork integrity. Oxidation is a primary concern for older wines, as indicated by low ullage levels. Oxidation can lead to sensory characteristics ranging from a dulling of the aroma, to "cardboard," "straw," and "hay-like" aromas, to "sherry-like" and "madeirised," according to The Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI). In extreme cases, a "wet wool," "wet dog," or "varnish-like" aroma can be evident, AWRI states. White wines, particularly "floral" varieties like Riesling, are very prone to oxidation. Red wines can withstand significant oxidation due to higher phenolic compounds, which are natural antioxidants, AWRI reports.

Other faults to be aware of include:

• Volatile Acidity (VA): Generally perceived as the odor of vinegar, VA is a measure of low molecular weight fatty acids, with acetic acid being the major component, AWRI explains. The aroma threshold for acetic acid in wine can be as low as 0.1-0.125 g/L, but it is usually considered detrimental above 0.7 g/L, AWRI notes. Increased levels in stored wines are usually attributable to the growth of acetic acid bacteria in the presence of oxygen, AWRI states.
• Ethyl Acetate: Perceived as the odor of nail polish remover, ethyl acetate has a reported sensory threshold of 12 mg/L, AWRI reports. In "normal" wines, concentrations range from about 30-60 mg/L, but can reach 150-200 mg/L in defective wines, AWRI adds.
• Cork Taint (2,4,6-trichloroanisole or TCA): The main compound responsible for cork taint, TCA has a distinct musty, moldy aroma, AWRI states. Its aroma threshold in a Pinot Noir wine was determined as 1.4 ng/L in one study. It might be lower in dry white wines or higher in full-bodied red wines, AWRI notes. The AWRI also found that TCA can be formed in oak, leading to taint without cork contact. Another compound, 2,4,6-tribromoanisole (TBA), also causes cork taint with a similar musty, moldy aroma, AWRI reports.

These faults can significantly diminish the enjoyment and value of fine wine. For a deeper dive into the world of fine wine and its market dynamics, consider exploring our live fine wine market index. If you're looking to understand the total cost of an auction purchase, our landed cost calculator can help.

What should you do next?

Understanding the condition of a 1970s Bordeaux bottle before purchase is crucial for protecting your investment and ensuring drinking pleasure. Use these checks to make informed decisions at auction.

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