Buying Old Wine: Your Pre-Purchase Checklist
Updated
Buying old wine safely comes down to five checks. They are the fill level, the capsule, the label, the cork, and the wine's provenance. These elements appear in catalogue photographs or in condition reports. They offer crucial insights into a bottle's journey.
Always evaluate these factors relative to the wine's age. For instance, WineBid states that a "top shoulder" fill is acceptable and normal for wines 15 years or older. It is very good for wines 35 years or older. A low fill can indicate seepage and oxidation of the wine, according to WineBid. Check the capsule for issues like corrosion or stains. WineBid notes that these can include corroded or stained capsules. The label's condition, from soiled to torn as WineBid describes, should align with the bottle's age and claimed storage. Examine the cork for signs of being depressed or elevated, WineBid notes. Finally, establish the provenance: WineBid emphasizes its importance for establishing the estimated value of very old, rare or valuable wines, and Dirceu Vianna Junior MW calls it the best advice for buyers.
What should you check before you buy an old bottle?
A thorough pre-purchase check inspects the bottle's physical condition. It also asks about the bottle's history. The table below summarizes the key areas.
| Check | What you are reading | The test that matters | Who publishes a standard |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fill | Distance from the base of the cork to the wine | Is the band normal for this age | WineBid, General guidance, Decanter (Christie's) |
| Capsule | Corrosion, stains, a cut or refitted foil | Has the seal already leaked | WineBid, Decanter, Chanut et al. (PNAS Nexus 2023) |
| Label | Soiling, staining, and whether the vintage is legible at all | Does the wear match the claimed storage | WineBid |
| Cork | Branding, depression or elevation, replacement marks | Is it original, and does it name the wine | WineBid, Decanter |
| Provenance | Ownership history and storage conditions | Does it justify the price and reduce risk | WineBid, Decanter (Dirceu Vianna Junior MW) |
How do fill levels indicate an old wine's condition?
Fill level is also known as ullage. It is the space between the wine and the bottom of the cork. It is "the best guide you have to the condition of a bottle of wine," according to Matt Walls, speaking to Decanter.com in 2018. Most wineries aim for an initial ullage level of between 0.2-0.4 inches (5-10mm) at bottling. Over time, wine is lost through cork absorption and evaporation, as Dirceu Vianna Junior MW noted in Decanter.
The significance of ullage depends on the wine's age. Julia Sewell, a sommelier and judge at DWWA, explained in Decanter that "bottle naturally evaporates very slowly through the permeable cork, so it is only expected that a 40 year old bottle will be less full than a current vintage of the same wine." However, "ullage lower than midshoulder level poses a much higher risk of spoilage," Sewell added.
Auction houses and retailers of mature wines carefully inspect ullage levels. Those levels help determine potential quality and value. WineBid provides detailed ullage terms for different bottle shapes:
For Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, and similar bottles:
- Base of neck or higher: WineBid considers this a "perfect fill level for any bottle of any age."
- Very top shoulder: This is an "excellent fill level for any wine more than 20 years old," WineBid states.
- Top shoulder: WineBid describes this as an "acceptable and normal fill level for wines 15 years of age and older. It is a very good fill level for wines 35 years of age and older." Christie's guidance from 2013, cited in Decanter, also considers "top shoulder" normal for any claret 15 years or older.
- Mid shoulder: WineBid notes this "may be normal for a wine that is 40 years old or older." Decanter, citing Christie's, says "mid-shoulder" is not abnormal for a 30 to 40-year-old wine.
- Low shoulder: WineBid states this occurs in older wines. Decanter, referencing Christie's, reports that a Bordeaux bottle with ullage at low shoulder is "considered 'risky and usually only accepted for sale if wine or label exceptionally rare or interesting'."
For Burgundy, Pinot Noir, and similar bottles: Burgundy ullage is measured in centimeters. The reason is the different bottle shape. Decanter notes that "condition and drinkability of Burgundy is less affected by ullage than its equivalent from Bordeaux," with "ullage of up to 7cm" being "relatively normal in 30-year-old Burgundy." WineBid's measurements include:
- Two centimeters or less: "excellent fill for any age."
- Three centimeters: "perfectly normal fill for wines 12 years and older. It is an excellent fill level for wines 25 years or older."
- Four centimeters: "normal fill for wines more than 20 years old and excellent for wines more than 35 years old."
- Five centimeters: "Not uncommon in wines 30 years old or older."
A lower fill level generally means more air in the bottle. That can lead to an accelerated aging process and harmful levels of oxidation. David Dudley-Jones of Dudley Jones Fine Wines noted in Decanter that "lower fill levels [in the bottle neck] and resultant seepage usually point to heat exposure and poor storage." While ullage is a strong indicator, Matt Walls cautioned in Decanter that "not a totally reliable measure of condition however; you do sometimes come across old bottles with a very low fill that have remained in good nick."
For a deeper dive into fill levels, consult our guide to wine ullage levels.
What do bottle capsules and labels tell you?
Bottle capsules and labels provide visual clues. They speak to a wine's handling and storage history.
WineBid inspectors document "every possible bottle detail," including "light or heavy capsule condition issue." These issues can include capsules that are "chipped, corroded, cracked, missing, nicked, oxidized, scuffed, soiled, stained, torn, worn, and wrinkled." Decanter suggests cutting the capsule to "inspect the condition of the cork and check for signs of seepage." Seepage, defined by WineBid as "The slow escape of wine due to natural cork lifecycle or storage conditions," indicates a compromised seal. Research by Chanut et al. in PNAS Nexus 2023 found that the glass-cork interface is a major pathway for oxygen entry into the bottled wines. The same work found that high storage temperature strongly increases the oxygen transfer at that interface. That can potentially lead to leakage.
Labels are also subject to various condition issues. WineBid's terminology for label condition includes "bubbled, faded, folded, loose, nicked, scuffed, soiled, stained, tissue stained, torn, worn, wrinkled, and when a label has writing on it that was not originally placed there by the producer." A pristine label on a very old bottle might raise questions about its authenticity or storage. Some wear is expected. The key is whether the label's condition aligns with the claimed age and storage environment. A match gives the bottle's journey a consistent narrative.
What should you look for in the cork?
The cork is the primary seal for your wine. Its condition is vital for long-term aging. WineBid inspectors note "light or heavy cork condition issue," which can include corks that are "depressed or elevated." A depressed or elevated cork can indicate storage issues. It can also point to problems with the cork's integrity.
Decanter suggests that to assess a wine's condition without pulling the cork, you can "gently touch the cork to ensure it does not move." A loose cork could signal a breach in the seal. The study by Chanut et al. in PNAS Nexus 2023 examined microagglomerated cork-based stoppers. It found that the "oxygen diffusion coefficient of the stopper alone is not modified regardless of the storage conditions" over 24 months. However, factors like the presence of wine and temperature do influence the overall oxygen transfer through the bottleneck-cork system. That system includes the glass-cork interface.
Why is provenance critical for older wines?
Provenance, the ownership history of a wine, is "particularly important for establishing the estimated value of very old, rare or valuable wines," WineBid states. It includes details about how the current owner acquired the wine and under what circumstances. Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, speaking in Decanter, emphasized that "best advice for buyers is always to try to establish the provenance of the bottle, in order to minimise risks."
WineBid categorizes storage conditions that contribute to provenance:
- Temperature Controlled Unit: These are compact units designed to keep wines within ideal temperature and humidity ranges. They have grown popular in recent decades.
- Passive Cellar: Rooms in a residence without permanent temperature control. WineBid usually inspects such cellars to determine storage quality.
- Underground/Subterranean Cellar: Can be passive or temperature controlled. A passive underground storage area is "always preferable to an above ground passive residential cellar" due to cooler, less light-susceptible, and still environments.
- Professional Storage Facility: Lockers in temperature-controlled buildings rented by collectors.
- Direct From Winery: Wines shipped directly from the winery to a warehouse.
If there are questions about a wine's provenance, WineBid states they "either reject the wines or state clearly on the lot descriptions that the provenance is unknown." Understanding a wine's provenance helps you gauge the likelihood of it having been stored in conditions conducive to proper aging. When considering a purchase, especially at auction, understanding how to buy wine at auction includes scrutinizing these details.
How does storage temperature affect old wine?
Storage temperature significantly impacts a wine's aging potential and condition. Empirically, wines should be stored at temperatures around 12-16°C, according to Chanut et al. in PNAS Nexus 2023. This study investigated microagglomerated cork-based stoppers in miniaturized bottle systems with model wine. It revealed important findings about oxygen transfer and temperature.
The research showed that the "oxygen diffusion coefficient of the stopper alone is not modified regardless of the storage conditions" over 24 months. Temperature still affects the total oxygen transfer, including the glass-cork interface.
- At 20°C: The "oxygen barrier properties remained unchanged over 24 months of aging." However, the presence of model wine favors oxygen transfer at the glass-cork interface. That interface accounts for nearly 75% of total oxygen transfer in comparison to cork studied without model wine. The study also found that the position of the bottle during storage, vertical... or horizontal... does not influence the oxygen transfer at 20°C over 24 months.
- At 35°C: This temperature is "easily reached during bottle shipping." The study found that total oxygen transfer did not increase significantly for up to 9 months. Beyond this duration of storage, a significant transfer at the glass-cork interface started to occur.
- At 50°C: This shift "already occurs within the first 3 months of storage." The researchers attributed this to "a partial melting of the surface treatment agent or to a modification of the mechanical properties of the stopper," noting that the stoppers' coating contained paraffin and silicone, which partially melted at 35°C and 50°C.
These findings underscore the importance of consistent, cool storage. Fluctuations or sustained high temperatures, even those experienced during shipping, can compromise the seal. They accelerate oxygen ingress and impact the wine's quality. For more on maintaining ideal conditions, explore our guide on how to store wine.
What are the risks of oxidation and cork taint?
Oxidation and cork taint are two significant wine faults. Both can diminish the value and enjoyment of old wines.
Oxidation occurs when wine is exposed to excessive oxygen. "While some oxygen is beneficial to the aging process of wine, excessive amounts can lead to oxidation and other various wine faults." The Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) describes oxidation's sensory characteristics as ranging from "dulling of the aroma, to ‘cardboard’, ‘straw’ and ‘hay-like’ aromas, to ‘sherry-like’ and ‘madeirised’." In extreme cases, "a ‘wet wool’, ‘wet dog’, or ‘varnish-like’ aroma can be evident," though for some styles like sherry, oxidation is deliberately encouraged. White wines, particularly "floral varieties such as Riesling, are very prone to oxidation, while red wines can withstand more due to their higher content of phenolic compounds, which are natural antioxidants, AWRI states. A low ullage level can indicate seepage and oxidation of the wine, according to WineBid, adds that the greater the amount of ullage, the more potential that the wine has been exposed to harmful levels of oxidation."
Cork taint, primarily caused by 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA), is "one of the most odour intense compounds known and has a distinct musty, mouldy aroma," AWRI reports. The aroma threshold for TCA in a Pinot Noir wine is 1.4 ng/L. The consumer rejection threshold is 3.1 ng/L. Some tasters can detect it at less than 1 ng/L, according to AWRI. TCA generally forms when moulds on cork come into contact with trichlorophenol. AWRI also notes that "TCA can be formed in oak, and as a result wines can have a TCA taint without any contact with cork."
When considering old wines for drinking, check our drink now recommendations. They show whether a wine is in its optimal window.
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