Chablis Vintage Chart: Understanding Value

The utility of a Chablis vintage chart for identifying superior wines is debated among experts. Some studies suggest experienced drinkers often cannot distinguish between highly-rated and lowly-rated vintages in blind tastings, except for Bordeaux wines. A vintage wine is defined as one made from grapes primarily grown and harvested in a single specified year. The importance of that year can vary significantly. For wines from regions at the colder climatic limits of production, like Chablis, vintage can be very important. Warmer seasons yield riper grapes and better wine. However, winemakers' advanced technology and skills can produce good wines even in undistinguished years. That has led some to declare the vintage chart obsolete. Despite these debates, vintage charts can still serve a purpose. Roman L. Weil, co-chairman of the Oenonomy Society of the US, suggests using them to help "find good buys in wine," as wines from years considered "worse than average" for vintages may be priced far below their actual quality.

What does "vintage" mean for your wine?

A vintage wine is one made from grapes that were all, or primarily, grown and harvested in a single specified year. Most countries allow a portion of wine not from the denoted year. In Australia, New Zealand, and the member states of the European Union, the requirement is 85% same-year content for vintage-dated wine, as stated by EU Regulation 1493/99, Annex VIII, E.7. The term "vintage" itself was first used in the early 15th century. It was adapted from the Old French "vendange," meaning 'wine harvest,' which in turn derives from the Latin "vindemia," meaning 'grape-gathering' (Oxford Dictionary, Etymology Online). The opposite is a nonvintage (NV) wine, typically a blend from two or more years' produce. This is a common practice for winemakers aiming for a consistent style year on year.

How important is vintage for quality and price?

The importance assigned to vintage is both varied and disputed. For wine produced in regions at the colder climatic limits of wine production, vintage can be very important. Some seasons are much warmer and produce riper grapes and better wine. Conversely, a poor growing season can result in grapes failing to reach optimal ripeness. That leads to grape juice higher in acid and lower in sugar, which impacts the resulting wine's quality. Wines of superior vintages from prestigious producers and regions often command much higher prices than those from average vintages. The gap widens where the wines are likely to improve with age in the bottle. Some wines are only labeled with a vintage in better-than-average years to maintain their quality and reputation. However, for the vast majority of wines produced to be drunk young and fresh, vintage is usually considered less important. For example, Beaujolais nouveau is a wine style made to be consumed within months of bottling. There, vintage serves to protect consumers from buying a wine past its best.

Do vintage charts actually help you pick better wine?

The utility of vintage charts is a subject of debate. New York Times wine columnist Frank J. Prial declared the vintage chart dead. He stated that "winemakers of the world have rendered the vintage chart obsolete". Bill Marsano wrote that "winemakers now have the technology and skills to make good and even very good wines in undistinguished years". James Laube of Wine Spectator asserted that "even an average vintage can yield some grand wines".

Roman L. Weil, co-chairman of the Oenonomy Society of the US, conducted blind tastings. They tested the hypothesis that experienced wine drinkers "cannot distinguish in blind tastings the wine of years rated high from those of years rated low, or, if they can, they do not agree with the vintage chart's preferences". Weil used wines ranging from four to 17 years beyond their vintage. His panel numbered 240 wine drinkers. He found that tasters could not distinguish between wines of good and bad vintages except for Bordeaux wines. Even when a distinction was made, the match between tasters' individual assessments and the charts' rankings was little better than tossing a coin. When these tests were replicated with wine experts, including French wine academics, the results were again the same as chance.

Despite these findings, Weil does not consider a vintage chart useless. He suggests using one to help "find good buys in wine," as wine made in years considered worse than average for vintages may be priced far below its actual quality. This perspective is particularly relevant for collectors looking to optimize their acquisitions at auction. There, understanding market dynamics can lead to value. You can explore the broader market trends with our live fine wine market index.

How should you store vintage wines to preserve quality?

Proper storage is critical for preserving the quality of vintage wines, especially those intended for long-term cellaring. The Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) recommends storing bottled wine with the cork in contact with the wine. AWRI advises a cool (15-20°C), dry location (Amon and Simpson, 1986, cited in AWRI Technical Note TN09).

Excessive storage temperatures significantly affect a wine's shelf life. Marais (1986, cited in AWRI Technical Note TN09) observed faulty flavors and decreasing overall quality after 12 months of wine storage at 30°C. Temperatures exceeding 40°C can induce visual and sensory changes in a wine in just days (Ough, 1986, cited in AWRI Technical Note TN09). In general, wine quality can suffer in any storage place where the temperature exceeds 25°C for long periods. The same applies where it exceeds 40°C for short periods (Ough, 1992, cited in AWRI Technical Note TN09). Thermal expansion of wine due to high temperatures can cause cork stoppers to move or wine to leak. That affects appearance and marketability, though not necessarily quality (AWRI Technical Note TN09).

Light exposure also has deleterious effects. It can cause "lightstruck" flavor, or "goûts de lumière" (Maujean and Seguin, 1983, cited in AWRI Technical Note TN09). This flavor is attributed to volatile sulfur compounds. Those are believed to derive from sulfur-containing amino acids like methionine and cysteine. Riboflavin (vitamin B2) in wine undergoes photo-activation when exposed to light at wavelengths of 370 nm and 440 nm. That reaction leads to the oxidation of these amino acids and the formation of the off-flavor compounds (Maujean and Seguin, 1983, cited in AWRI Technical Note TN09).

AWRI Technical Note TN09 reports that still and sparkling white wines bottled in green glass developed a statistically significant lightstruck flavor after 31.1 hours and 18 hours of exposure to fluorescent lamps, respectively (Dozon and Noble, 1989). The same wines in clear glass developed this flavor significantly faster, after only 3.3 hours and 3.4 hours, respectively. Sensory assessment showed a decrease in 'citrus' aromas. It also showed an increase in 'cooked cabbage,' 'corn,' 'wet wool/wet dog,' and 'soy/marmite' aromas (Dozon and Noble, 1989, cited in AWRI Technical Note TN09). Direct sunlight is considerably more damaging than fluorescent lamps. It provides 4286 times the amount of UV-A radiation (Gordon Watson, cited in AWRI Technical Note TN09). Amber glass is most effective at excluding wavelengths below about 450 nm (Rankine, 1989, cited in AWRI Technical Note TN09).

The AWRI recommends storing wine under insulated and/or temperature-controlled conditions that minimize fluctuations in both temperature and humidity (AWRI Technical Note TN09). You can learn more about optimal conditions in our guide to how to store wine.

What are the implications for your Chablis cellar?

For your Chablis cellar, the insights on vintage and storage are particularly pertinent. Chablis sits in Burgundy, a region at the colder climatic limits of wine production. Vintage can therefore be very important for its quality, as warmer seasons can produce riper grapes and better wine. You can explore the region further with our Burgundy map.

However, Roman L. Weil's research highlights a general skepticism surrounding vintage charts. Relying solely on a chart for Chablis might not consistently predict superior quality in blind tastings. While tasters could distinguish Bordeaux vintages in Weil's study, this distinction did not extend to other wines tested. This implies that for Chablis, a nuanced approach is beneficial. Instead of dismissing "off-vintages," consider Weil's advice to use vintage charts to "find good buys in wine," as these years may offer quality priced below expectations. This strategy can be especially valuable when buying wine at auction.

Given that Chablis is a white wine, the AWRI's findings on light exposure are highly relevant. White wines, especially those in clear glass, are susceptible to lightstruck flavor in a matter of hours (Dozon and Noble, 1989, cited in AWRI Technical Note TN09). Ensuring your Chablis is stored in a dark, cool (15-20°C), and dry environment is paramount to preserving its delicate aromas and flavors. This is particularly true for wines from prestigious producers like Domaine Leflaive.

Ultimately, a specific Chablis vintage chart can provide a starting point. A deeper understanding of the vintage's general characteristics, combined with meticulous storage, will best preserve the quality and potential value of your collection. You can also monitor wines entering their drinking window to ensure optimal enjoyment.

Unlock the full potential of your collection with our comprehensive drink-window data for your cellar. It helps you decide exactly when to open your prized bottles.