Understanding Ullage in Champagne and Port
Updated
Ullage in Champagne and Port begins with the same idea it does anywhere else. Ullage is the headspace of air between the wine and the top of its container. It is a critical factor for collectors evaluating fine wine. This space is a mixture of alcohol and water vapors with carbon dioxide. It can also contain oxygen if the container is not completely airtight. For older wines, the ullage level, or "fill level," provides insight into the care and storage conditions a bottle has experienced. It directly influences the bottle's potential quality and value, as noted by WineBid: auction terminology. Some oxygen benefits wine maturation. Excessive amounts can lead to oxidation and faults. Champagne is under significant pressure and Port is fortified, so the typical ullage levels for each are essential to any decision on whether to hold, open, or sell your bottles. This guide will help you interpret these levels and their implications for your collection.
What is ullage and why does it matter for fine wine?
Ullage is the space at the top of a wine bottle not occupied by wine. It matters because a low ullage can indicate seepage and oxidation, which can considerably affect a wine's value, according to WineBid: auction terminology. This headspace is a mixture of alcohol and water vapors with carbon dioxide, a byproduct of fermentation. In containers that are not completely airtight, like cork-stoppered bottles, oxygen can seep into this space. Some oxygen is beneficial for aging. Too much can lead to oxidation and other wine faults. WineBid trains its inspectors to document every possible bottle detail, including ullage, because it is particularly important for establishing the estimated value of very old, rare, or valuable wines. The ullage level can also reveal the type of care and storage conditions the wine received. Wines kept at ambient humidity and temperatures between 10-15°C (50-59°F) experience slower evaporation and diffusion, which results in lower ullage levels.
How is ullage measured in different bottle types?
Ullage levels are generally important to the likelihood of almost any wine being in good shape. Wine merchants and auction houses use standard descriptions for them. The fill level descriptions differ for Bordeaux and Burgundy wines due to their distinct bottle shapes. WineBid specifies different ullage terms for Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, and similar bottles compared to Burgundy, Pinot Noir, and similar bottles.
For Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, and wines in similar bottles, WineBid: auction terminology defines fill levels as:
- Base of neck or higher: If no fill level is indicated, that means that it is at the base of the neck of the bottle or higher. WineBid considers anything that is in the neck to be a perfect fill level for any bottle of any age.
- Very top shoulder: Indicates either a slightly low fill at the time of bottling and/or a slight natural reduction due to an easing of cork and evaporation through the cork and the capsule. This is an excellent fill level for any wine more than 20 years old.
- Top shoulder: On the high slope of the shoulder, this is an acceptable and normal fill level for wines 15 years of age and older. It is a very good fill level for wines 35 years of age and older.
- Mid shoulder: Suggests that ullage has dropped during the life of the wine due to easing of the cork and/or inconsistent storage conditions. This may be normal for a wine that is 40 years old or older.
- Low shoulder: This occurs in older wines.
For Burgundy, Pinot Noir, and wines in similar bottles, ullage has historically been measured in centimeters, looking at the space between the cork and the wine, according to WineBid: auction terminology.
- Two centimeters or less: Considered an excellent fill for any age and does not need to be mentioned.
- Three centimeters: A perfectly normal fill for wines 12 years and older. It is an excellent fill level for wines 25 years or older.
- Four centimeters: Considered a normal fill for wines more than 20 years old and excellent for wines more than 35 years old.
- Five centimeters: Not uncommon in wines 30 years old or older.
Michael Broadbent, a Master of Wine and senior consultant of Christie's auction, developed a guide for evaluating the ullage levels of matured wines in the late 1980s. It focuses primarily on Bordeaux, and it has become widely accepted in the wine market.
Here is a comparison of Broadbent's ullage guide for Bordeaux bottles:
| Ullage Level (in/cm) | Appearance | Assessment |
|---|---|---|
| 0.12 in (0.3 cm) | High up to the cork | Normal level for young wines |
| 0.2 in (0.5 cm) | High in neck | Good condition for any age |
| 0.6 in (1.5 cm) | Top of the shoulders | Normal for older wines. Good condition for wines over 15 years |
| 1 in (2.5 cm) | Upper part of shoulders | Generally okay in older wines, especially those over 20 years |
| 1.18-1.38 in (3-3.5 cm) | Mid to mid-low shoulders | Possible oxidation. Price should reflect the risk |
| 2.36-2.75 in (6-7 cm) | Low shoulders to below shoulders | Extremely risky. Possibly undrinkable |
You can learn more about general fill levels and condition in our guide to wine ullage levels explained.
What are typical ullage levels for Champagne?
Champagne bottles are sealed with a crown cap during secondary fermentation, which is induced by adding yeast and rock sugar. After aging, the bottle undergoes remuage to settle the lees in the neck. Disgorgement follows, where the neck is frozen and the cap removed. That allows the six-bar (90 psi) pressure in the bottle to force out the ice containing the lees. A "liqueur de dosage" is then added to maintain the level within the bottle and adjust sweetness. The bottle is quickly corked afterwards to maintain carbon dioxide in solution.
Unlike still wines, Champagne is under considerable internal pressure, which helps to maintain the fill level. The pressure in a Champagne bottle can send the cork flying, especially if shaken, as noted by Comité Champagne: storing champagne. This internal pressure means that a significant drop in ullage for a Champagne bottle can be a more serious indicator of a fault, such as a compromised cork or bottle seal. Such a fault can lead to a loss of effervescence and oxidation. Specific ullage terms like "mid-shoulder" are not typically applied to Champagne, because of its bottle shape and internal pressure. Even so, any noticeable drop in fill level below the foil or capsule should be viewed with caution. The cork itself starts as a cylinder and is compressed before insertion, then becomes more permanently mushroom-shaped over time. Its ability to return to its original cylinder shape can indicate the length of time it has been in the bottle post-disgorgement.
How does late disgorgement affect Champagne ullage?
Late disgorgement refers to Champagnes that have spent extended periods on their lees before disgorgement. Prestige cuvées show it most often, among them Bollinger's R.D.: Récemment Dégorgé (meaning "recently disgorged") and Krug Collection. This extended aging on lees contributes to complexity and can enhance the wine's aging potential.
For these late-disgorged Champagnes, the period before disgorgement is spent under a crown cap, similar to those used on beer bottles. This seal is generally more consistent than a traditional cork in preventing oxygen ingress during the initial aging phase. Once disgorged and re-corked, the wine begins its post-disgorgement aging. The ullage level in a late-disgorged Champagne, therefore, primarily reflects the integrity of the final cork seal and the conditions of storage after disgorgement. A pristine fill level, close to the cork, is generally expected for these wines, especially if they have been recently released. Any significant ullage in a late-disgorged bottle could indicate poor storage post-disgorgement or a faulty cork. Either would be a concern for collectors. You can explore more about Bollinger R.D. and Krug Collection late disgorgement on our entity page.
What are typical ullage levels for Vintage Port?
Vintage Port, a fortified wine, is known for its exceptional aging potential. Vintage Port might be slightly less prone to damage from oxidation since it is fortified. Ullage levels remain important for assessing its condition all the same. Port bottles typically have a straight-sided, dark glass bottle, often with a bulbous neck designed to catch sediment when decanting.
Similar to still wines, a full fill level, high into the neck, is ideal for Vintage Port. As Port ages, some evaporation through the cork is natural. However, significant ullage, such as a level that has dropped noticeably into the shoulder of the bottle, can still indicate issues. For Port, a fill level that is "high shoulder" or "mid-shoulder" would generally be considered acceptable for very old vintages, reflecting natural evaporation over many decades. A "low shoulder" fill, however, would be a cause for concern. It suggests more substantial loss and a higher risk of oxidation. The provenance, or ownership history, of a particular wine covers how it was acquired and stored. That history is particularly important for establishing the estimated value of very old, rare, or valuable wines like Vintage Port, as stated by WineBid: auction terminology. Wines stored in professional storage facilities or underground cellars are generally preferred, according to WineBid: auction terminology. You can find more information on specific vintages and producers like Taylor's and Fonseca declared vintages on our dedicated page.
How does ullage impact value and your decision to hold or sell?
The ullage level of a bottle directly influences its perceived quality and, consequently, its market value. That is especially true for older and rarer wines, as noted by WineBid: auction terminology. A lower fill level means more air in the bottle and an accelerated aging process, according to Wine-Searcher Limited. For collectors, these levels are crucial when deciding whether to hold onto a bottle, open it, or sell it.
- Holding: If your Champagne or Port has an excellent or normal ullage level for its age, it suggests good storage conditions. It also suggests a higher likelihood of the wine being in good shape. That supports a decision to keep holding the wine, letting it mature further, or to enjoy it within its optimal drinking window. You can monitor the live fine wine market index to inform your holding strategy.
- Opening: For wines with acceptable ullage levels, particularly those approaching or within their drinking window, opening the bottle might be the best option. A slight ullage is normal for older wines. It also means there is a greater chance of oxidation compared to a perfectly filled bottle. Enjoying the wine now mitigates the risk of further deterioration. Consider checking our drink now recommendations.
- Selling: A bottle can show significant ullage, especially "mid-shoulder" or "low shoulder" for Port, or any noticeable drop for Champagne. That indicates a higher risk of oxidation and potential spoilage. Such bottles will likely command a lower price at auction. WineBid states that a low ullage can affect a wine's value considerably. When selling, transparency about ullage is key. WineBid inspectors document every possible bottle detail, and if provenance is unknown, it is clearly stated in lot descriptions, according to WineBid: auction terminology. You can use our all-in cost calculator to estimate net proceeds if you decide to sell.
The decision to hold, open, or sell should always factor in the ullage level as a key indicator of condition and potential quality.
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